Ken's Kayak Pages

Glassing The Interiors

Things are about to get very rigid . . .

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coaming10.jpg (62269 bytes) The deck has been popped off the forms and positioned upside down on two workbenches placed end to end.  Some foam blocks have been taped together to hold the deck steady while the scraping and sanding operations are carried out.
coaming11.jpg (71863 bytes) A requisite picture with all strip built boats, here the glue is being removed and the inside strips faired up with a scraper.  The paint scraper pictured came from Harbor Freight, has three different shaped blades with 9 cutting surfaces,  cost 9.99, and makes quick work of any glue.
joining03.jpg (57047 bytes) The hull interior has now been scraped and sanded as well. I will glass the hull first and set all the station widths before proceeding with the deck glassing.  This seems like the simplest way of assuring alignment between the two.  I weighed the hull at this stage, and it is less than 16 lbs.  I will weigh it again after interior glassing, it will become my own personal benchmark to beat in the future.
joining04.jpg (59664 bytes) There are actually two layers of 6oz cloth in this picture.  I have a first layer that does not quite cover the entire hull, but rather the waterline and perhaps a couple inches above.  Over this is placed a second layer that covers the entire hull interior.  I haven't trimmed it yet here, I wanted the glass to spend a day in this new location because it does not really want to conform perfectly.  Close, but it will be closer yet  in the morning.
joining05.jpg (63028 bytes) Through the miracle of Internet photos, the next day arrives.  This pic shows the hull immediately after being wet out with epoxy.   I invited a friend of mine, Frank, to help with the operation.  He had never done glassing before, wanted to learn, so this was good for both of us. As it turns out, it was very fortuitous that he was there, because the hull interior was the most demanding of all glassing I'd done so far.  Two fillets, two 6oz glass layers, epoxy hungry wood & cloth, it was a small workout for 2 people.  I mixed 24oz initially, and had to mix another 16oz to finish up.  There are no white spots, and no puddles . . . That resin was absorbed by the wood and cloth!
joining06.jpg (68393 bytes) In order to insure that the hull and deck will mate properly after glassing inside and outside, a number of techniques have been employed.  I chose a simple approach - After the hull interior was glassed,  I mated and taped the hull and deck so there was no alignment error.  I applied some masking tape to the top edge of the hull while it was still curing, and placed the deck directly over it.  I then squeezed where the joining needed to be squeezed, and applied some strapping tape when the hull & deck were aligned.  I don't need no steenking spreaders!  Fast and simple.
joining07.jpg (42395 bytes) To provide a solid bow & stern   location for a thru-hole I epoxied a shaped spruce form from  a spruce 2x2.   I epoxied each shaped piece into the cavities at the bow and stern using thickened epoxy as glue.
joining08.jpg (48010 bytes) The inside deck has several layers of fiberglass cloth draped inside it at this time.  There is a 6oz layer at the forward hatch position, a 6oz layer around the cockpit, stretching back over the entry mounting position and the rear hatch location .  A third layer of 6oz cloth is positioned behind the cockpit.  A 4oz layer of cloth is draped over the entire deck interior.
joining09.jpg (23544 bytes) The deck interior has turned to a  gel after a few hours, and the deck has been taped in place over the cured hull.  When the deck interior has cured to shape, the hatches will be cut and the coaming glassed in place.

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