Ken's Kayak Pages

Bungee and Hatch Holdowns

Cutting the slots, making the loop-holders, and adding the rigging . . .

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finish_09.jpg (44456 bytes) I decided to go with soft webbing loops Like Joe Greenley uses.  Before final buffing of the deck, I laid out the slots for the bungee attachment points.  I literally laid it out with tape so there would be no surprises as slots were cut on each side of the deck. They accommodate the loops of webbing very snugly.
finish_10.jpg (39720 bytes) Here's a couple of the aft slots. I drilled a series of 1/16" holes, cut them through with a small saw, and filed them to a precise rectangular shape.  You need a very thin file for this operation, as the slots are either 1 or 2 thickness of nylon webbing, depending on where it is used.
finish_11.jpg (46362 bytes) 10 little web-loop holders have been cut and slotted the same way as I did the deck slots.  I dipped them in thinned varnish to let it soak in, and hung them to dry.   I don't expect that these will be getting wet, but better safe than sorry.   The wood is 2" long pieces of the spruce strips I had used as trim strips on the kayak.
finish_12.jpg (58626 bytes) I cut 4-1/2" long pieces of 1" nylon webbing, and stapled and epoxied the webbing under the wooden holders.  Here they are standing on a plastic wrapped board while the epoxy cures.  The epoxy wicks right through the webbing making the web-block a solid piece.  It does NOT wick up to the loops, however.
finish_14.jpg (50786 bytes) This pic shows the underside detail of the webbing loop.  Two 1/4" staples (I finally used those things) are driven through the webbing into the wood piece to hold the webbing flat during the epoxy stage.   Epoxy was then flooded onto the bottom, wetting the webbing thoroughly, and making the entire assembly one piece. The loop of webbing did not wick the epoxy, and remains flexible.
finish_13.jpg (47243 bytes) Here's what the bungee loops look like when they're inserted from the inside.  A bead of silicone RTV will be placed around the loop side of the block, and then the blocks pressed into place.  As Joe Greenley pointed out in a post a year or so ago, RTVing the loops in place allows for easy removal when it's time to refinish the deck.  I still have to buff the deck, after which time they will be RTV'd in place.
finish_15.jpg (47101 bytes) After buffing the deck (I'll put up some non-flash outdoor pictures soon), I finished the deck rigging. 
finish_16.jpg (67209 bytes) The hatches are held down with webbing and buckles, and the arrangement sure does seem snug.  I can't imagine a hatch coming loose under most any circumstance.  I used 2 belts on the smaller front hatch, and 3 on the aft hatch.
finish_17.jpg (58520 bytes) View looking forward - The weather stripping was placed into the hatch grooves today, and the closed cell foam is holding the hatch up from the internal lip that serves as a flush stop. I believe the foam will compress and allow the hatch to sit fully flush in a few days.  At this time it takes a LOT of pressure to compress the foam to 1/2 height, which is the design goal.
finish_18.jpg (48334 bytes) Aft view of the rigging - I really like the way the soft web loops look.  Thanks for the idea, Joe Greenley.

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